Author Topic: Rebedding window frames on a 44  (Read 2760 times)

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tessahartmut

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Re: Rebedding window frames on a 44
« Reply #9 on: January 27, 2023, 12:28:27 PM »
Thank you that definitely helps

stgermain45

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Re: Rebedding window frames on a 44
« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2023, 04:36:09 PM »
I believe the rest of the thread is talking about the bigger fixed windows above deck. For the Manship fixed windows on the hull, one of ours started leaking. The leaks were not a defect of the window itself like yours, but I went through the process of removing and rebedding. You will need to pull it out from the outside. The window is installed with a lot of caulk and the screws coming in from outside are thru-bolted on the inside. The inside SS is just a trim plate installed with the screws directly into the wood with no caulk. It is purely decorative. How the window is installed will be obvious as soon as you remove it. Basically, first remove all screws on the inside holding on the the interior trim plate, then remove all screws on the outside. You'll need two people, one inside to unthread the nuts and one outside to man the screwdriver (same with installation). At this point, the window is held in only with caulk. Cut away old caulk and carefully pry it loose with the help of a putty knife. Definitely mask off the outside area so as to not damage the hull.

Chris
SV Beleza - H46 #44

tessahartmut

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Re: Rebedding window frames on a 44
« Reply #7 on: January 19, 2023, 10:15:37 AM »
Hylas 46 2010 #69: our manship window started leaking. 
Attached is a photo of the window leaking. Water comes in at 4 places

- between the glass and the stainless steel frame (black arrow)

- above stainless steel frame and the outer stainless steel frame (bule arrow)

Leaking happens in both lower corners (forward and aft)

I sealed it from the inside as temporary fix. Almost not leaking anymore. I have contacted manship and they are very responsive and offered to repair the window at no costs to me. Apparently they are familiar with this issue.
Does anyone know if the window can be removed from the inside or is outside access required?
We are fulltime cruiser and do not plan for a haul out anytime soon.

joel

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Re: Rebedding window frames on a 44
« Reply #6 on: August 24, 2016, 04:06:46 PM »
Did the one that was leaking!  There was no sealant on the frame itself.  Removed and cleaned everything.  Sanded the window sill.  I coated the bare wood with West epoxy.  Drilled out most of the holes, but per Burt's instruction, left several undrilled - great idea!  Used West 6/10 cartridge to fill the holes.  Day 2 mounted the frame, drilled the epoxy for screws, removed frame.  Made 2 tiny spacers from a scrap of teak to hold the glass at the proper height.  Used painter's tape around the frame.  Applied LifeCaulk to the wood. Set the glass.  Applied a bead of lifeCaulk to the fiberglass at the same level as the screwholes.  Assembled, taped a trash bag over the whole thing to keep it dry due to anticipated thunderstorms.  Varnished the sill.  Done!

This weekend - track down another leak on the port side - possibly the handrail or the hatch base.

joel

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Re: Rebedding window frames on a 44
« Reply #5 on: August 13, 2016, 02:31:26 AM »
Thanks Burt. It's not necessary.
Joel

burtpreston

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Re: Rebedding window frames on a 44
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2016, 09:45:48 PM »
Joel,

Yes, I did use Epifanes one part non gloss. Be sure and get some varnish on the surface that makes contact with the glass. My frames were bare wood at that location so I thinned the first coat.

Now that I have reread my post, I'm pretty sure I used 4200UV instead of 4000. I can check on that if you like.

Burt

joel

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Re: Rebedding window frames on a 44
« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2016, 01:40:42 PM »
Burt,
Thanks, this is very helpful!  I'm planning to use the West 6/10 epoxy cartridge, so hopefully it won't run much, but I'll try using the tape to keep it in place.  I like the idea of doing the varnish while the windows are out and the epoxy is curing.  Did you use Epiphanes?

Joel

burtpreston

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Re: Rebedding window frames on a 44
« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2016, 01:57:32 AM »
Joel,

I found that screws are only screwed into the wood coring under the fiberglass. Remove the SS frame, clean it well with scrapper, and use acetone to remove any residue. Do the same around the window frame and the glass. Then if
the screw holes are just into wood I drilled them out with a 7/8 inch drill (I think). Then I used a router bit in my electric drill to remove more wood, basically under cutting the fiberglass. NOTE, leave 3 or 4 holes intact towards the ends of the window on the top and bottom. These will be used to locate the SS frame when you redrill the screw holes. A turkey baster to blow the residue out of the enlarged holes. Use epoxy to coat the wood in the drilled out holes before using a thickened epoxy to fill the holes. Since the holes are on a vertical surface I used blue masking tape to cover the bottom half of the hole while filling. Then as you add more filler, keep raising the tape to keep the filler in the hole. When it hardens, sand flush and install the SS frame with the 3 or 4 original screw holes. I used a counterbore to mark all the filled holes as it marked the center of the hole. Remove the SS frame and drill new screw holes in the filled holes. Repeat the drilling out, filling and redrilling operation with the 3 or 4 screw holes that were used for locating the SS frame.

I used black butyl purchased in rolls from an automobile window repair shop. I suspect that grey tape has filler and may not seal as well. Place the SS frame in place with a few screws and then mask the outer edges with blue masking tape.Remove the SS frame and wipr the frame, glass and window frame with acetone and  keep everything clean until you are finished. Pack the butyl into the voids in the fiberglass/wood window frame. Then install the glass and continue packing the butyl. On my boat the glass was slightly recessed below the fiberglass surface so I added butyl until it was slightly higher than the fiberglass surface. I did not get butyl within about 1/2 inch of the blue masking tape since I used 3M's 4000 around the outside of the windows. Once the butyl is in place, put a big bead of 4000 around the window. Black butyl can easily make a mess of your fiberglass, so I didn't want it near the fiberglass. Also place a circular bead of 4000 round each screw hole. To mount the SS frame carefully hold it away from the glass and install one screw partially at one end of the frame, being careful to keep the frame away from the glass. Then partially install a second screw at the other end of the frame. Now the frame should be suspended about 3/8 ince out from the glass and just barely touching the 4000. Add the remaining screws but don't tighten them until they are all in place, as this will keep the 4000 from squirting out the holes in the SS frame. Then starting at one end tighten the screws. Before fully tightening each screw, stop and unscrew the screw 2 or 3 turns. This will fill the threads with 4000. Finish tightening each screw. Immediately begin wiping the 4000 away from the SS frame and glass. The blue masking tape should keep most of the mess off the fiberglass. Before the 4000 starts to set up remove the blue tape.

It took me two long days to do two windows. I also varnished the interior window frames when the glass was out. The butyl takes awhile to pack, probably about two hours.

Burt Preston
H44 - 83 Exuberant

joel

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Rebedding window frames on a 44
« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2016, 04:35:37 PM »
I need to rebed the fixed windows.  What can I expect to find when I remove the screws and stainless frame?    I'm planning to rebed with butyl tape.  Several screw holes are stripped.  What should I use to fill the screw holes?  Epoxy?

 

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