H46 holding tank failure

[Nirvana]

Brian (et. All):  as an add-on this is a thread about the forward tank from a few years ago.  Granted Nirvana has no thruster.

http://hylasyachts.org/index.php/topic,1160.msg4134.html#msg4134

One note, in my ordeal (and it was a full on cut floor out of the forward stowage locker and rebuild everything ordeal) one thing stands out to consider.

While you are in there perform a very close inspection of the bulkhead pas-through attachment points.  On Nirvana, because the prior owner had never replaced or serviced anything forward of the bulkhead, these had degraded and became soft and impregnated thus odor intense.  I also cut them out as well as the surrounding bulkhead structure and replaced it with new glass/teak ply, the fittings, built a new, larger access panel inside the forward head and added a macerator overboard pump in there.

I do not envy you this work and wish you best of luck.

I am happy to say after 8 years she is still completely odor free and I maintain vigilant inspections of that tank, fittings and space.  I NEVER want to deal with that again.

Last note:  I also replaced the vent line and vent in the aft tank.  My guess is Starboard tacks in rough seas are the culprit.

Ken

P.S.  I have lots of photos and a write up about this I sent Queen Long as the issue with the forward tank was clearly a factory oversight error that had been with the boat since it was built.  Freely willing to share anything you need.

[Windswept]

Brian.....somewhat same issue here, but in the bow holdind tank. After inspection....could I see basically the whole  v-shaped bottom cracked. I cut the whole top off the tank so as to get to all bottom edges. I cut the top with a jig saw set to cut at an angle (like cutting a pumpkin lid) so I could reinstall top "glass" back in.

I ground back the paint (inside tank) ect....so as to get back to raw glass....in which I layered in strips of cloth in which I used the West system to tie back in. I applied 3 layers of cloth....first layer was 6", 4" then finally 2".
Thos layers spaned the whole length of vertial, horizontal seams. Note here: Before I closed the top..... I cut a slot in the middle of the bottom of the tank...approx. 1" wide by10" long. I then used the same dimension of a piece of 1" thick Coosa Board...but, cut it long enough to reach the angled shape of the hull. I then glassed that piece in. That piece acts as a "to me" a King Post! It suports  the bottom of the tank, in the middle. This tank will not break/leak now

I think I understand what is going on here.....you take a full or nearly full holding bow tank....then plow into some headseas for a few years.....I can't imagine the load on those bottom holding tank seams!! Mine were all cracked....and needless to say, leaking! Very nice Hylas!! After that...I replaced all sanitation hoses... and that my friends is another story...OMG....that project made the forward holding tank project feel like a walk in the park!

PM me for pic's are Q.'s

[Ripple]

My first choice would to try the grind and fiberglass approach and go to plan B if that does not work. JR

[bhalderman]

Jim,
It sounds like our crack is in a similar area where vertical and horizontal surfaces meet. It is also unfortunately at the front corner at the bend and less than an inch from the plate that holds the pump out fitting so I am just not sure if I will be able to do enough grinding to get the fiberglass mat to hold around all those corners. I'm still thinking of removing the whole top surface and retrofitting a smaller plastic tank inside or somehow remanufacturing and re-glassing the whole top piece although not sure how I would go about that either? was your crack in a precarious position? Any tips
Thanks
Brian
s/v Matriesa
46 #43

[Ripple]

It has been a while ago but as I recall, the top of our tank is two levels and it cracked at the joint where the vertical panel is attached to the lower horizontal panel. Previous owner used epoxy to fix but it did not work. We used fiberglass mat and resin which, after 7 years, is working well. BTY, we have a washer/ dryer over this tank so it is very inconvenient to access. Also, somebody may be interested to know that if the old Splendide machine fails, new models are the same size.
Jim 46-53

[joel]

Brian

Can you add an inspection port to give you access the the cracked area?  Our tanks have 4 inch ports on top. Some thickened epoxy and glass cloth should take care of the problem.   
The vents on our tanks were clogged and rotten, so I replaced the elbows with Marelon.
Good luck!
Joel

[bhalderman]

The aft holding tank on our 2002 H46 started leaking when it got close to full. We replaced every sanitation hose and fitting on the system as it was due time and found the vent hose to be fairly clogged...hoping this was causing a fitting to leak. Upon final inspection unfortunately we found this is not the case and we have a very small crack in the fiberglass near the top of the tank on the aft side. I was also surprised to find the holding tank is not really a tank but a glassed in enclosure so simply cutting out and replacing the tank is not an option. Re glassing will be incredibly difficult and messy and thinking about cutting off the top of the fiberglass section and inserting a slightly smaller plastic holding tank or inserting a bladder, or just closing it off completely and placing a holding tank above the current space which would cost us a good deal of valuable storage space in the shower cabinet. Has anyone been through this dilemma? Any recommendations? I'm also afraid our forward holding tank is in the same shape and will likely need similar attention. It is in the forward section of the bow aft of the anchor locker and just forward of the bow thruster enclosure. I must say I am a bit surprised of the design with no tank just a glassed in compartment with glassed in fittings and backing plates?

Brian
s/v Matriesa
H46 #43