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Water maker installation on My 46' Hylas

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Anthem:
Dan,

Pretty easy access, but hanging clothes and upper shelf need to be removed.  Thru-hull is also used for AC cooling and galley sink salt water foot pump.  Probably better to have single source for water maker as we sometimes get air into system, probably from other connections.

Had to cut out water tank under bunk for rusted and leaking seams, 304.  Replaced with two stainless tanks, 316, to allow installation through overhead hatch.  Port tank is directly fed from Spectra, starboard tank is fed from deck port.  Installed a large connection pipe with valve on forward lower point of tanks that is located under locker on forward end of bunk.  All bilge tanks are used for diesel.

Good luck,

Jack

Sailsteady:
Jack,

This is fantastic and very helpful, thank you for sharing!  Great use of that space and it appears as if you have good access to service the water maker as needed?

Did you add a new thru hull or plumb into one of the existing holes?  From that location, did you connect into the water manifold next to the nav station, or directly into one of the tanks like the rear tank?

Thanks again, really appreciate the pics!


Dan
s/v Nepenthe

Anthem:
Hi Dan,

Sorry it took so long to reply.  Had the water maker off to replace starboard cockpit drain thru-hull and valve (routing still not complete).  Here are a few pictures of the Spectra 380c installation in aft hanging locker on our H46.  Intake thru-hull is aft of engine on starboard side (behind aft doors in galley).  Accumulator is below vertical membrane vessel.

Sailsteady:
Anthem,

Any chance you have some pics of the Spectra install underneath the hanging locker?  Would love to see how you have that in there.  Thanks in advance.  You can email them here:  dankral@yahoo.com


Dan
s/v Nepenthe
1997 H46

snailor:
Andy,

Sorry to hear about your water tank troubles.  When we bought our H-46 in 2015 the starboard fuel tank leaked diesel from the seams.  Though the leak was small, it was a smelly nuisance that required constant management. When Queen Long told me the only way to remove the tank from beneath the cabin sole was with a Sawzall I reverted to Plan B. To improve access to the entire tank interior, I cut a new hatch in the cabin sole forward of the baffle, installed a new access plate in the top of the tank, opened the existing plate aft and thoroughly cleaned/degreased the entire tank.  Surprisingly, the 304-Stainless steel inside was shiny and perfect with no visible signs of corrosion, so it cleaned up nicely.  Then, with the help of a small video camera, bright light and mirror sealed every seam from the inside with two-part JB Weld epoxy.  This material is fairly thick so it hangs on the vertical surfaces and even upside down surfaces pretty well.  When I was done, I blew warm air through the tank to help it cure. The whole thing took me most of a day, including pumping the remaining fuel out.  The cost, including the new inspection plate from Seabuilt (wee.seabuilt.com) and epoxy was around $250.

We've sailed the boat pretty hard in the three years since with no sign of a leak.  I was never able to actually identify exactly where the leak was but it was clearly in one of the welded corner seams - I think near the inside bottom aft corner. Although these tanks are well-made from very thick steel (sawing through it took a while), it probably doesn't take much of a flaw in the welds to eventually induce a tiny crack or pinhole.  Add to that the stresses imposed on the rigid tank structure as the boat works in a seaway and its surprising more of them don't leak. In any case, I thought I'd throw this out there in the event any of your other tanks develop a leak or other owners run into this problem.

Best Regards,
Eric
H-46 034 Santosha

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