I have not removed the rudder on hull #84, nor would I be in any hurry to do that. We have been back and forth from the NE to St. Thomas a dozen times and are planning a trans Atlantic for next year. These boats are stout, overbuilt (albeit wet) and you can trust them with your life.
-> I would agree with Tim. I have removed my rudder, but I was in Thailand when the labour rates were crazy cheap. The bearing was a little lose and I made the mistake of getting it replaced. Of course, a small adjustment would have been a better idea, and replacement bearing wore out quickly, so then we had to do it again a few years later. Trust Queen Long's original fit out, unless something is broken. That's my opinion now.
There is a robust stuffing box below the quadrant that is fully accessible with some bruised knuckles and can be inspected. According to Marty Carlson who was the Lloyds surveyor of choice in St. Thomas during the heyday of Hylas 44s in charter, the only problem ever encountered with the rudders was the heel plate where the bottom of the rudder attaches to the skeg. the charter company used to leave the boats on moorings with the helm unsecured and the bottom bolts would work loose. Even when that happened, the rudder stayed in place and the boat still could be steered. I have, in 17 years of listening, never heard of rudder failure (other than what Marty told me) on a 44.
-> I would always have a slight drip from the stuffing box, and needing to screw it down every 6 months or so. And last hard stand, I removed the standard packing and put that lifetime stuff from West Marine Pro. A little more expensive, and no drips since. Looking on West Marine, I think the one I used was "WESTERN PACIFIC TRADING PTFE Flax Shaft Packing" - it promised a 10 year+ lifespan, I recall. It appears slightly green and feels a bit sticky. No need for extra grease. PM me if you are finding difficulty finding it.
I am aware of Edson's view that the cables should be changed every 10 years. If I were selling cable, I would probably think that too. Since I don't sell cable, I inspect them carefully and keep the grease cups filled, tightening them periodically to force the grease into the sleeves. This is stranded cable and, like rigging, should develop meat hooks signaling its deterioration rather than parting catastrophically.
Tim Glynn
s/v Egraine
-> Again, I agree with Tim. I removed all my cables and replaced only the part that were broken or worn. I actually bought eye terminals and 305 wire and made my own replacement wires. All available from West Marine, and a fraction of Edson's price.
-> The service kit for the pedestal seemed good value, and made the steering feel a lot better. There are websites that sell the bearings separately -
Rigrite.com-> On another side topic, I have found that
servicing my winches with the grease intended for my old MaxProp (removed and sold now) has been an amazing success. They worked smoothly from day one, and still the same 3-4 years on!! What a bonus not to have to remove them all each year!
Lubriplate 130 AA Grease - I used it for the whole thing - gears and inside the ratchet mechanisms (where you are supposed to use oil only, but it washes away really quickly.) FYI I have sunbrella covers for my winches too, except the mast winches - all have loved the Lubriplate grease. Give it a try!
