Our control box is located under the forward stateroom berth than a separate breaker mounted on the wall in the v-head. I also had to change out cables a few years back as they had corroded at the connection point to the motor in the anchor locker under the windlass

Merrill,

Just follow the cable from the breaker and it will lead you to the box.  The problem could just be corroded connectors causing voltage drop, so have your meter handy.  On my boat, the breaker was undersized (only 50 amp when it should have been 100) and the cable corroded.  Then the motor drowned.

I need to order a new motor for my windlass.    Not looking forward to that job!

Joel
Atlantis 44 # 66.

I did a complete rebuild of the 4JH3-HTE in my Stevens 47. New bearings, pistons, cylinder head, etc. The reason for the rebuild was that the engine had ingested water and sucked a valve. Like the OP, I didn't want to go with a new, electronic motor. The cylinder bores had rusty patches from the water ingestion, and I wanted to bore the cylinders out 0.010, but oversize pistons were not available, despite being listed in the parts r&r catalog. I honed the cylinders out as much as allowable, but that wasn't enough to completely remove the rust stains.

So far the engine runs fine, but I still worry about those rust patches. The engine does burn more oil than I would like, but I think that was due to a damaged housing/oil seal in the turbo. I've replaced the turbo, but haven't had a chance to run the engine enough to see if that fixed the oil consumption problem.

Good luck on your rebuild. Let me know if I can help in any way.

Guess I will have to look and see what brand I have now.  Thought it was Johnson but maybe not.

The Johnson switch is what I use in the sump pump.  The problem I’m having is the switch seems to get stuck up, or stuck down so it doesn’t work.  Then if I hit the thing it starts to work.  But of course I can’t hit the switch when the top of the sump is on.