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Hylas Discussion / Re: Boat Covers
« Last post by jay on September 08, 2017, 06:38:42 PM »
We have been through a few different boat covers.  Our 46, went through 2 different nylon covers.  Both blew out from wind and weather.  I do know people that wrap their boat, but seems like most frown against it as there is just too much moisture and condensation build up, and it's a throw away. 
We ended up going with a Fairclough.  It's heavy canvas with steel supporting frame.  It's certainly not anything you can keep on your boat when not in use, and it's a project to put on.  Also, rather expensive.  But they are custom made for each boat, as they have templates for most of the Hylas models. When on, you really don't have to worry about it much, even with a snow load, and they do last.  You can go to their web site, and watch installation vids.  If however, your just storing for a very short period, it would be way overkill. We ended up with one on our 46, and now one for our 56. A friend on the east coast has one that's made for storing at your slip. Anyway, hope that help.  best jay HY56#12
Hylas Discussion / Re: apparent propeller shaft knocking on Hylas 44
« Last post by John H on September 08, 2017, 02:20:07 PM »
We found a couple of possible causes for the knocking sound on our 44. The engine was out of alignment and we had a slight bend in the shaft. Waiting on the new shaft, assembly, alignment and launch for confirmation.
Hylas Discussion / Boat Covers
« Last post by Aria49 on September 06, 2017, 08:09:37 PM »
I have nice nylon boat deck covers for our 49 from previous owner.  They take up quite a lot of space on board.  I'm thinking of getting them off the boat.
Anybody use boat covers?  I think if it sits on the hard we could have it wrapped, this might be the way to go instead of hauling these things around.  Thoughts?
Hylas Discussion / Re: Bottom Paint
« Last post by jay on September 05, 2017, 12:48:27 PM »
We are also on the GL's but Lk Mich. side. You could go with Micron CSC, as there's a chance that's what QL applied.  A lot of people here use VC17, but it would have to be removed if you ever go to salt water. CSC can work for both, although there's a lot of good bottom paints out there, and everyone has their favorites.  You do have to make sure the bottom is prepped right, as we found that the barrier coat was so smooth, that we had big patches come off, along with some peeling. Also, when your boat comes out for the winter, check that whoever power washes the bottom, doesn't get too aggressive, as that can cause problems.  Hope that helps.  Jay HY56 #12
Hylas Discussion / Re: Bottom Paint
« Last post by nesscapade on September 01, 2017, 03:59:24 PM »
Yes, sorry about that. GL means Great Lakes.

Right now Flying Lady H45#28 is at Irish Boat Shop in Charlevoix. We sail about 2000 miles / year mostly in Lake Huron, North Channel and the tip of Lk Michigan. Our plan is to continue sailing here in the Great Lakes for a few more years. After that we may take her down to the Caribbean.

Thanks, Yan
Hylas Discussion / Re: Bottom Paint
« Last post by joel on September 01, 2017, 03:10:00 PM »
"GL"?  Great Lakes?
Hylas Discussion / Bottom Paint
« Last post by nesscapade on September 01, 2017, 01:34:58 PM »
We're having Flying Lady's bottom painted this winter. We are located here in the GL and will be for the next few years.

I'm just starting to research my options.

Would greatly appreciate hearing about your experiences with types and color of paint?
Hylas Discussion / Grade 1 treatment macerating toilets?
« Last post by Iolea on August 30, 2017, 09:49:56 PM »
We are planning on replacing our two Raritan PHEII electric toilets on our 2003 model H49 with macerating toilets that have a grade 1 treatment capability.  Interested in anyone's views on which macerating toilets are the most reliable and the quietest, as well as the grade 1 treatment options?  With regard to the grade 1 treatment, also where that equipment was installed?
Hylas Discussion / Re: Sail Sizing
« Last post by sjohnson on August 29, 2017, 09:41:51 PM »

Thank you so much for all you input.  There were a lot of good points and recommendations with a lot of different ideas and experiences.  We have elected to go with Doyle Sails (Peter Grimm).   He has promoted the 125% genoa and that is the way we are going.   One interesting note for other 54's, when he measured the boat, the genoa track is probably not long enough to support a 135% genoa with a higher cut clew.   

Good sailing to all.

Scott Johnson
Lame Libre H54 #22
Hylas Discussion / Re: Sail Sizing
« Last post by mjarzo on August 24, 2017, 08:32:34 PM »
I have a Hylas 49 that I have been amateur racing in Northern California (San Francisco local Offshore series). It has a 130 genoa and 100 staysail (both on furlers) and a full batten main on a boom furler. I have tried many different sail combinations sailing tight upwind and on various points off the wind (beam, broad, and direct downwind goosewing with the whisker pole set, or using the asymmetrical and running downwind angles). We fairly regularly get 30+ knots outside the Golden Gate when racing (this year) so plenty of opportunities to try various sail combinations and see how they work.

Beyond 20 knots going upwind the issue is more about finding a combination with fairly even spacing between the gears while keeping good pointing ability and controlling weather helm. Around 20 knots true I usually put a single reef in the main. I can hang on like that until around 25 true with the full 130 but it's getting overpowered, rail is in the water most of the time, and helm can get loaded if I accidentally fall off a bit or a large wave knocks the boat off course.

What to do as it passes 25? I typically furl some of the 130 if I am getting close to the upwind mark, but I lose significant pointing ability as soon as it's furled (somewhere around 10+ degrees and even more if sea-state is messy).

If there's still a long way to the upwind mark and I think the wind will stay strong or build more then I have more work getting the right combination but it saves some pointing ability. I fully roll the genoa, unfurl the staysail and take the reef out of the mainsail. This takes some time but gets me through to the higher 20's and weather helm is managed by feathering the boat in the gusts. It still points reasonably well (for a H49) with this combination. Once it gets to fairly continuous 30 true I put the reef back in the main but hold the full staysail. I've raced it up to low 30's true with gusts in high 30's with this combination.

Off the wind the H49 will take a lot more sail area and the combinations are less critical because pointing ability is not an issue. Most of the time I have reef in the main on the upwind beat so I have to decide whether to shake it out or leave it there. If conditions look like they'll stay around 25 true or more I leave it reefed. Anything under 25 and best to shake it out.

It will take full genoa and full main at 25 true when broad or beam reaching but some broaching can occur when waves are bigger and boat surges on the faces (not really a surf). Once it gets below 20 true I can also deploy the staysail. Michael H49 Hylite
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