Recent Posts

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]
91
Hylas Discussion / Re: H49 Shaft removal - cutlass bearings
« Last post by Finally on March 11, 2020, 01:09:00 PM »
Yes that is correct, cutlass bearing on the strut is standard, the one exiting the hull at the keel is custom from QL.  My marina just ordered one to complete the work.  Essentially it's a standard bearing that has threads machined onto the end, with a mating flange allowing attachment by six screws to connect to the boat where the shaft exits.

One other thing we noticed (photo attached) it appears the bottom of the shaft tube wasn't fully glassed in when the boat was built by QL, this could allow water to get into the keel area (though unlikely with the bearing well sealed.  Looks like we were just fine when inspecting the area below this, but will be glassing this in as part of the bearing replacement.

Don't know if any others have run into this, but thought I"d pass it along.
92
Hylas Discussion / Re: H49 Shaft removal - cutlass bearings
« Last post by Aria49 on March 11, 2020, 11:27:16 AM »
If I read this right, the cutlass bearing that is pressed into the back of the keel is custom "with a flange" that you can only get from Queen Long?  I have a PNY dripless belows to replace soon.  Sounds like I should get the custom cutlass bearing on order from queen long.
93
Hylas Discussion / Re: H49 Freezer condensation issue
« Last post by Aria49 on March 11, 2020, 11:13:48 AM »
Thank you Iolea,
We will give it a try too.
 
94
Hylas Discussion / Re: H49 Freezer condensation issue
« Last post by Peterc on March 03, 2020, 02:30:49 PM »
 We have a 2003 H49  (Mickey Jean) and we have the same condensation issue. Thanks - The polystyrene is a great tip, I'll try and post back if it works.....
95
Hylas Discussion / Re: Hot Water Tank
« Last post by tulsag on March 03, 2020, 11:19:23 AM »
Defender.com has most heating elements.

I'd check the voltage at the panel of the water heater to verify that you are getting full voltage (and not a wire problem prior to the electricity reaching the element).  Heating elements are rather 'dumb' devices. If they are getting the proper voltage they should yield constant results.  If you are getting full voltage to the element, I'd assume either the element has calcified or cracked and needs to be replaced.

Mark

TARA
Hylas 54
96
Hylas Discussion / Re: H49 Shaft removal - cutlass bearings
« Last post by Iolea on March 03, 2020, 04:46:00 AM »
I’d agree with everything Windhorse said, we’ve had the prop shaft out of Iolea (2003 built hull #40) twice in 10yrs to replace both cutlass bearings, and more recently to also replace the prop shaft, it was exactly as described by Windhorse.
97
Hylas Discussion / Re: H49 Freezer condensation issue
« Last post by Iolea on March 03, 2020, 04:43:35 AM »
We had the same issue on Iolea, which is 2003 built hull #40, we inserted a sheet of polystyrene foam on the settee side and the problem disappeared and never returned.
98
Hylas Discussion / Hot Water Tank
« Last post by Ambition on March 02, 2020, 10:26:32 PM »
We have just noticed that the 110V element of the hot water tank only produces warm not hot water. Whether we are plugged into shore power of running the gen set the result is the same. Under engine power it works perfectly so I am assuming it is an electrical issue. Is it possible for the element to partially fail? I have not yet pulled the cover plate off to inspect. Has anyone replaced the element and where was it easiest to be sourced?
Thanks in advance

Merrill and Maryse
S/V Ambition H46 #40
99
Hylas Discussion / H49 Freezer condensation issue
« Last post by Aria49 on February 26, 2020, 10:30:11 AM »
We are live aboards on Aria, a 49 hull#30.  The boat has been great and sails fantastic! We do have a nagging issue with condensation from the freezer on the sette side. It causes mold on the sette cushion if not regularily cleaned.I have drilled a hole and injected insulating foam, this helped only slightly.  The boat is in Caribbean and it uses Frigoboat.
Has anyone had a similar issue?
Brian
100
Hylas Discussion / Re: H49 Shaft removal - cutlass bearings
« Last post by svwindhorse on February 17, 2020, 12:03:53 PM »
Greg and Missy:
1) yes the shaft can be removed fairly easily and will clear the Rudder ONLY AFTER both  cutlass bearings are removed.The removal of the cutlass bearings allows just enough play for the shaft to pass on the side of the rudder when being removed.
2) I think it would really unwise and complicate the job by leaving the prop shaft in because you need to clean all surfaces and use a waterproof adhesive prior to reinstalling the new Cutlass bearings. Besides if you’re going to the trouble to remove the prop and replace the bearings you might as well true up the shaft while you’re at it.
3) The forward cutlass bearing on our 49 has a flange which is custom made and pressed in. If you have such a flanged bearing the best place to get it from would be Queen Long. The aft bearing on the strut is stock.
4) Unless you’re at a yard with a hydraulic bearing removal tool, a Strut Pro will reduce any chance of damage or loosening to the bronze skeg rather than the alternative of taking a sawzall to cut into the inner wall of the cutlass bearing or trying to beat it out by impact. The Strut pro alternative makes a fast and easy work of removing the aft cutlass bearing on the skeg.
5) When you replace your mounts, remember the starboard and port engine mounts are different models. make sure your installer gets the right specifications.  When I had them originally replaced, the installer put the same model mounts in all positions. I later had to have another installer replace the wrong mounts.

John
Windhorse H49-38
Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]

If you wish to help keep the HYOA running, please click the donation button below