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Hylas Discussion / Re: Hatchboard Storage on H49
« Last post by bobknapp on February 05, 2018, 12:40:18 PM »
To help address questions I have received regarding the drop board storage, I have posed some pictures on Dropbox. See link below:


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zz8hgpsg8e2a76t/AADU4NCspV_NJGQvR3OjVZ0ja?dl=0
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Watermakers on 49's
« Last post by bobknapp on February 05, 2018, 12:33:11 PM »
Alan,

Following up on my previous post, and in response to questions that you posted, I have provided a collection of photos of the water-maker installation aboard Quintessa.

To secure the membrane/Clark pump component an additional Ĺ inch plywood pad was fiber-glassed beneath the pad for the electrical bonding system.  The plywood was initially bonded with thickened West epoxy, then filleted around the edges, and lastly covered with several layers of glass cloth.  Because space was tight under the removable bunk boards, the assembly had to be tipped so that the lower rubber mounting grommets rested flat against the hull below the new pad.  So as to not penetrate the hull with attachment screws, the lower pair of grommets acted solely as bumpers and did not receive screws.  To still provide adequate mechanical attachment, two extra holes were drilled along the upper row of grommets, and fitted with two additional grommets obtained from Spectra.  The result provided a row of four attachment grommets along the upper edge (along with the two attachment grommets along the middle row).  These grommets were attached with large self-tapping screws through the bushings provided.

In the filter locker, a stainless-steel mount was fabricated to hold an assembly of two filter housings. The stainless flange was used because the filters needed to be held further out due to the angle of the hull.  The other change to the standard installation, was to reverse the internal components of the service module to better accommodate the hose runs. The only consequence of this change was to relabel the ports and handle positions.  Lastly, a two-way valve was installed in the discharge line to eliminate the quick-connect fittings provided by Spectra and to make the pickling process easier.  The manifold for the product water was installed by Hylas as part of their water-maker pre-installation option.

The control/feed pump module fit easily in the locker beneath the forward hanging locker.  This location proved convenient for the pre-installed wiring and plumbing, and was  close to the fresh water supply in the forward head.  You will notice in both the filter locker and control module locker the machinery was carefully positioned to still allow reasonable storage in the two lockers.  The result was that these locker spaces were not entirely given up to the water-maker!

The thru-hull valve and strainer were also pre-installed.  This plumbing was located in the adjacent floor-board locker in the forward cabin, which I think was a good location for it. The thru hull was fitted with a forward-facing scoop.

Lastly, there was a question about providing power to the unit.  The pre-install package included heavy amperage wire from the main panel.  Due to the high power-draw (and the size of the wire required) the wiring was made directly to the breaker switch and did not go thru the modular punch-down connection buss.  I would recommend following this set-up and not to run the power off the bow battery.  The wiring chases up the port side just below the hull/deck joint can be easily accessed and will allow for a clean installation of all the wiring, including the control wires.

Please let me know if you have any further questions and I will be happy to address them.

Link to Dropbox for pictures:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/n9qlobydlhjhj6v/AAAf_0cxXT6T6AMYzFdLqW9Fa?dl=0

Regards, Bob Knapp
s/v Quintessa (H49-46)


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Hylas Discussion / Mooring cleat screws- good idea Norm! One of mine just failed!
« Last post by svwindhorse on February 05, 2018, 03:07:04 AM »
I didnít pay much attention to Norm of Blue Moonís post last week about his concern about rusted mooring screws until an hour ago when I heard a loud BAM aboard our boat after a 40+ gust blew into Isle Cabrits here in the Saints and tore the forward starboard cleat clean out of the deck. Fortunately, we had bridaled two lines on the mooring, so no big deal. One of cleatís screws showed complete crevice corrosion and the other partial.  To do list:  Remove and check all cleats.   
John H49-38 (2002)
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Frig/freezer condensation
« Last post by Ripple on February 02, 2018, 10:27:48 PM »
I need to apologize for not thanking sooner the responses to this topic. Since arriving in Trinidad, we have been working non stop on boat projects. Michelle's (sv Beleza) picture of the frig door is like ours. Thanks, Michelle. A contractor here cut most if the insulation off the door and side of the frig and freezer to make a two step bevel. What they found was that there were voids where a resin was somehow used with the foam and the foam melted, leaving the voids. There is a lot of humidity in the south Caribbean and the rebuild has helped the condensation problem but not solved it. This shouldn't be a hard problem to fix but so far, condensation wins.

Jim
H46-53
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Recurring Rust Stains Around Deck Hardware
« Last post by tbglynn on February 01, 2018, 04:26:55 PM »
There is a cheaper and simpler thing to try, particularly since your recently installed hardware is the worst you have.  Remember that SS is stain less, not stain free.  I don't have the technical grasp of why, but my ship's chief engineer, who among other things has a SS fabricating shop has explained to me that SS has to be "passivated" after welding or exposure to certain electrical currents otherwise it will be reactive to salt water staining and rust.  Wichard's stainless steel polish contains something that passivates SS and I have had good experience keeping rust and discoloration away with it.  Worth a try before going to all that work. 
Tim Glynn s/v Egraine H44/45.5, #84
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Coolant Change on Yanmar 4jh3-TE
« Last post by stgermain45 on February 01, 2018, 04:30:50 AM »
Jack,

I think probably all of our boats have subtle installation differences which make these types of jobs a little easier or harder depending on the circumstances. It is nice that you have coolant shutoff valves in the WH hoses. I installed those on a previous boat to help facilitate bleeding air which was previously tricky. Not on Beleza, but we do have an oil drain pump permanently plumbed in for engine/generator oil changes. I did a lot of these jobs pretty recently, so I may be able to help if you run into trouble.

Engine tranny - my only suggestion is to NOT overtighten the plastic dipstick, but this applies to fluid level checks as well of course. I cracked mine with what I didn't think was "too tight" and had to purchase a replacement - fortunately backing it out wasn't as bad a crease project as expected and no bits of plastic fell into the gearbox. So dumb this is threaded plastic, but learn from my mistake!  For the gearbox oil, I used Castrol SAE 30 HD.

For the Panda:

I think you'll find the impeller change to be pretty standard with good access. I don't have a special puller like I have for the main engine. I used Johnson 09-45587 (Amazon $35) which includes impeller, gasket, new screws, o-rings, etc - but really all you likely need is the impeller/gasket only kit - I put a note in my records to seek that out instead on next purchase and save a few bucks. Remember to close the seawater intake seacock before starting!  ;)

Fuel filter - direct replacement for ours was a Baldwin BF840. This was NOT the part specified by Fischer Panda and took me a few Google searches to track down. Very possible yours is the OEM, but at $12 on ebay for a 2-pack of these filters, I can't complain. I have a couple of the OEM filters that I bought before looking if you or anyone needs them (part # RCS2502). They weren't cheap for as small as they are! (there's probably a Kubota cross reference part for cheaper too). Anyway, moral is to look at the parts installed before ordering spares. Fuel bleeder screw is shown in the attached manual in Fig A.21 #2. Fig A.20 is the fuel filter ours looked nothing like.

Oil - standard, not much to recommend. I used a Yanmar 119305-35170 filter and 10W-40 oil.

Generator coolant change is on my "to-do" list. Maybe someone else has some tips or you will!?


Cheers,

Chris
s/v Beleza, H46 #44

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Hylas Discussion / Re: Recurring Rust Stains Around Deck Hardware
« Last post by joel on February 01, 2018, 12:30:32 AM »
Merrill,

I'm rebedding all my stanchions using butyl tape:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

C&C used it on the deck/hull joint and it was still pliable after 30 years.

Joel
Hylas 44
Atlantis
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Hylas Discussion / Recurring Rust Stains Around Deck Hardware
« Last post by Ambition on January 31, 2018, 11:10:07 PM »
Ambition is a 2002 Hylas 46 hull #40. On some (but not all) of the deck fittings (cleats, station bases etc) I get a recurrence of rust stains. After cleaning with FRS they are good for only a few weeks before the rust stains reappear. I am beginning to believe that ALL of these fittings are probably suffering from a degradation of the sealant to keep seawater out from underneath them. I even have a few that rust badly and they were yard installed 2 years ago. Before I start the task of slowly pulling each one and rebidding it, I would appreciate any insight this group could provide about my assessment as well as best experience with which caulking products, as I am sure I will not want to do this again any time soon!

Thanks as always for you feedback,
Merrill and Maryse Mant
S/V Ambition H46 #40
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Coolant Change on Yanmar 4jh3-TE
« Last post by Dealatis on January 31, 2018, 07:28:09 PM »
Chris, thanks for taking the time to respond...got the job done.  Observations:

- I just used the two drains on port and stbd side of engine.  These drains had tubes to facilitate flow if draining coolant.   Stbd side drain was a pain to access.  Used big ziploc bags to catch old coolant.

-I was able to isolate the water heater loop.  The coolant hoses to the water heater have little valves I can close so the coolant wonít drain out.  Saves the step of bleeding the air out of that loop.  I figured some old coolant mixed with the same type new coolant would be ok.

-1 3/4 gals came out, included contents in small plastic expansion tank.  About the same amount that drained out.

-I ran engine for 5 minutes at idle...coolant level dropped (when thermostat opened) and I topped off...but added only a few ounces...I thought it would be more?

Anyway...thanks again...in to the tranny oil change and coolant/oil/filter/fuel filter/impeller change on fisher panda mini8...any words of wisdom?

Jack
30
Hylas Discussion / Re: Jib size for a 44
« Last post by tbglynn on January 31, 2018, 05:36:16 PM »


Sounds reasonable.  Good luck with it. 

My minimum distance for the A sail is fifteen miles unless I've got a lot of help.  My favorite down wind thing with some help is to pole the jib out to windward, pull the main in on center line and set the A sail on the leeward side.  The A sail and the jib dump into each other keeping them both full and lets you steer dead downwind. 

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