11
Hylas Discussion / Re: Seeking crew Fiji to New Zealand
« Last post by Dave Brennan on August 16, 2018, 09:38:53 AM »We're also looking for crew from Tonga to New Zealand on our 54, if there is a lot of interest.
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12
Hylas Discussion / Re: New to us Hylas 54 lists to port
« Last post by Nirvana on August 16, 2018, 01:26:52 AM »Nirvana, ‘97 46 #13, also has this issue. After reading all these responses I concur the design is at fault making it near impossible to counter. With 4 8D batteries, aft Holding tank and all Nav electronics on port it makes sense; not to mention forward stateroom drawers and berth also on port. Lastly even though low on the Center the hot water tank is 10gl and on port of Center.
I am thinking we may move the outboard davit and mount to STB but that’s really all I can think of to move.
At least you know what your fastest tack will be!
I am thinking we may move the outboard davit and mount to STB but that’s really all I can think of to move.
At least you know what your fastest tack will be!
13
Hylas Discussion / Re: New to us Hylas 54 lists to port
« Last post by jt11791 on August 14, 2018, 12:38:33 AM »Thanks for the responses, it's a comfort to know that we aren't the only H54 that leans a bit. I'll burn down the port side fuel tanks first and see how that changes things.
14
Hylas Discussion / Re: Top 3 Issues to look for: Hylas 46
« Last post by brian black on August 13, 2018, 10:37:28 PM »contact me offlist, if you want . . .
briblack at earthlink dot net
briblack at earthlink dot net
15
Hylas Discussion / Re: Replacing backing plates for cleats and staysail
« Last post by joel on August 13, 2018, 07:39:00 PM »Will,
Good job! I've had nuts crumble that hold the jib track. Easy to remove and replace, even if it is disconcerting.
Joel
Good job! I've had nuts crumble that hold the jib track. Easy to remove and replace, even if it is disconcerting.
Joel
16
Hylas Discussion / Re: 44 rudder removal
« Last post by tbglynn on August 13, 2018, 03:34:01 PM »I have not removed the rudder on hull #84, nor would I be in any hurry to do that. We have been back and forth from the NE to St. Thomas a dozen times and are planning a trans Atlantic for next year. These boats are stout, overbuilt (albeit wet) and you can trust them with your life.
There is a robust stuffing box below the quadrant that is fully accessible with some bruised knuckles and can be inspected. According to Marty Carlson who was the Lloyds surveyor of choice in St. Thomas during the heyday of Hylas 44s in charter, the only problem ever encountered with the rudders was the heel plate where the bottom of the rudder attaches to the skeg. the charter company used to leave the boats on moorings with the helm unsecured and the bottom bolts would work loose. Even when that happened, the rudder stayed in place and the boat still could be steered. I have, in 17 years of listening, never heard of rudder failure (other than what Marty told me) on a 44.
I am aware of Edson's view that the cables should be changed every 10 years. If I were selling cable, I would probably think that too. Since I don't sell cable, I inspect them carefully and keep the grease cups filled, tightening them periodically to force the grease into the sleeves. This is stranded cable and, like rigging, should develop meat hooks signaling its deterioration rather than parting catastrophically.
Tim Glynn
s/v Egraine
There is a robust stuffing box below the quadrant that is fully accessible with some bruised knuckles and can be inspected. According to Marty Carlson who was the Lloyds surveyor of choice in St. Thomas during the heyday of Hylas 44s in charter, the only problem ever encountered with the rudders was the heel plate where the bottom of the rudder attaches to the skeg. the charter company used to leave the boats on moorings with the helm unsecured and the bottom bolts would work loose. Even when that happened, the rudder stayed in place and the boat still could be steered. I have, in 17 years of listening, never heard of rudder failure (other than what Marty told me) on a 44.
I am aware of Edson's view that the cables should be changed every 10 years. If I were selling cable, I would probably think that too. Since I don't sell cable, I inspect them carefully and keep the grease cups filled, tightening them periodically to force the grease into the sleeves. This is stranded cable and, like rigging, should develop meat hooks signaling its deterioration rather than parting catastrophically.
Tim Glynn
s/v Egraine
17
Hylas Discussion / Re: Replacing backing plates for cleats and staysail
« Last post by will@willclower.com on August 13, 2018, 02:42:40 PM »Hi guys,
Just a follow up on this thread. We got the backing plates back from the metal fabricators for the forward two cleats and the staysail, cleaned up the hardware on each -- no thread damage visible, and then rebedded with 4200 (the specs on this do indicate that it's waterproof).
Interesting though, for our backing plate on the staysail. I was backing out the nuts, one of them just broke! It kinda fell apart. Well that freaked us right out, so we got new nuts and washers for all of them.
ALSO, putting the staysail back on was a collossal PITA. In order to put the bottom of the sail (under the Furlex) back into the thingy (technical term) and insert the connector pin to lock it down, we first just leaned on the furling drum, but it wouldn't reach. It was just less than an inch too short. Doh.
But aha! It must be that the weight of the sail itself (still furled) was causing a sag in the angle of the line, and channeling all the 8th grade trigonometry I cared to remember, figured that that accounted for the tiny difference in the distance we needed to get her back together. So. Off came the staysail, and the problem was ... not solved. Still too short! We had another half inch or so to go, even with me leaning on the drum with my considerable weight!
The solution was to take the running rigging block forward (running rigging line and the staysail connect at the same point up the mast). Once that block was clamped down, we manually hauled on the line getting the pin insertion within, honestly, millimeters!
So finally we fed the running rigging line across our dock, to our neighboring boat, and he put it on his wench. With just a couple of cranks (granted, we could be called "a couple of cranks", but in this case I'm referring to turns of the wench), we easily got the scope we needed, in goes the connector, codder pin, and now she's re-assembled as good as new!
Thanks everyone for your thoughts here, just wanted to let you know how it came out.
~Will and Dottie
Amari H46 #33
Just a follow up on this thread. We got the backing plates back from the metal fabricators for the forward two cleats and the staysail, cleaned up the hardware on each -- no thread damage visible, and then rebedded with 4200 (the specs on this do indicate that it's waterproof).
Interesting though, for our backing plate on the staysail. I was backing out the nuts, one of them just broke! It kinda fell apart. Well that freaked us right out, so we got new nuts and washers for all of them.
ALSO, putting the staysail back on was a collossal PITA. In order to put the bottom of the sail (under the Furlex) back into the thingy (technical term) and insert the connector pin to lock it down, we first just leaned on the furling drum, but it wouldn't reach. It was just less than an inch too short. Doh.
But aha! It must be that the weight of the sail itself (still furled) was causing a sag in the angle of the line, and channeling all the 8th grade trigonometry I cared to remember, figured that that accounted for the tiny difference in the distance we needed to get her back together. So. Off came the staysail, and the problem was ... not solved. Still too short! We had another half inch or so to go, even with me leaning on the drum with my considerable weight!
The solution was to take the running rigging block forward (running rigging line and the staysail connect at the same point up the mast). Once that block was clamped down, we manually hauled on the line getting the pin insertion within, honestly, millimeters!
So finally we fed the running rigging line across our dock, to our neighboring boat, and he put it on his wench. With just a couple of cranks (granted, we could be called "a couple of cranks", but in this case I'm referring to turns of the wench), we easily got the scope we needed, in goes the connector, codder pin, and now she's re-assembled as good as new!
Thanks everyone for your thoughts here, just wanted to let you know how it came out.
~Will and Dottie
Amari H46 #33
18
Hylas Discussion / Re: New to us Hylas 54 lists to port
« Last post by Crafty on August 13, 2018, 02:19:18 PM »On Vanishing Point H54 hull 20 I have a port forward water tank below the port cabin as well as a port mid water tank. I only have 1 water tank on the starboard side. I believe the aft holding tank is on the port side as well. This definetly contributes to a slight port list. When my extra port forward water tank is empty and the holding tank is pumped out completely, the list is considerably less and hardly noticeable.
Cheers
David
Cheers
David
19
Hylas Discussion / Re: New to us Hylas 54 lists to port
« Last post by jgronning on August 13, 2018, 12:54:27 PM »I own H54 #2. She lists noticeably to port. I’ve owned her since 2005 and I feel like the degree of list has really increased over the past couple years. The boat sails fine, but I find it really annoying to look at. Nothing on my boat has changed in terms of weight distribution, tankage, etc. I estimate it would probably take 1,000 pounds of weight on the starboard rail to even the boat out. Considering nothing has changed down below, I was wondering if the mast could be out of alignment? I checked it and it’s fine. I’ve spent many hours thinking about this issue and investigating potential causes but I haven’t a clue as to why.
20
Hylas Discussion / Re: 44 rudder removal
« Last post by joel on August 13, 2018, 11:49:28 AM »Can’t help on rudder removal but be sure to check the steering cables. Edson recommends replacement every 10 years.
Joel
Atlantis
44 # 66
Joel
Atlantis
44 # 66
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