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Hylas Discussion / Re: H49 Rudder Bushing Replacement
« Last post by Ripple on February 22, 2019, 08:10:47 PM »If your rudder stuffing box looks like the attached drawing, I may have some helpful insight. JR
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Hylas Discussion / H49 Rudder Bushing Replacement
« Last post by jklarason on February 21, 2019, 11:28:41 PM »1993 H49 Hull #3 and the upper and lower bushings need replacement. Excessive lateral rudder post movement has caused excessive leaking from the rudder post stuffing box. I am aware of all that is involved in removing the rudder. I need information regarding the lower pivot pin and bushing. QL does not have specific records on Hull#3 and so there is a question as to whether or not there is a bronze bushing at the bottom of the rudder post. We know the post is 62.5mm diameter stainless and we also know the pivot pin which is bolted to the bronze skeg shoe is 30mm dia SS. What is not yet known is whether there is a bronze bushing inserted into the bottom of the rudder post. As my boat is still in the water on passage and I would like to have parts delivered in advance of hauling... So here is the question, can any H49 owner tell me if there is a bronze bushing visable at the base of their rudder post ?? A photo would be so wonderful as it would allow me to more directly communicate with Vincent at QL.
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Removing galley sink / replacement
« Last post by joel on February 21, 2019, 04:46:42 PM »Kindred does have a single bowl model that will work, as do Elkay and Blanco. Kindred seems to be sold only in Canada.
We are contemplating going with quartz for a different look.
Also, we can have a custom stainless sink built to the original specs for a couple hundred dollars more.
Thanks for the advice!
Joel
We are contemplating going with quartz for a different look.
Also, we can have a custom stainless sink built to the original specs for a couple hundred dollars more.
Thanks for the advice!
Joel
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Removing galley sink / replacement
« Last post by stgermain45 on February 19, 2019, 10:13:08 PM »Our current double sink is a "Steel Queen" model manufactured by Kindred. Maybe they have some suitably deep options.
http://www.kindred-sinkware.com/
One option is to switch to undermount style where exact fit isn't critical. It could open you up to a bunch of options from various manufacturers. We selected a Hahn for a replacement (single basin), but they have 10" deep double basins.
https://www.shophahn.com
Chris
SV Beleza, H46 #44
http://www.kindred-sinkware.com/
One option is to switch to undermount style where exact fit isn't critical. It could open you up to a bunch of options from various manufacturers. We selected a Hahn for a replacement (single basin), but they have 10" deep double basins.
https://www.shophahn.com
Chris
SV Beleza, H46 #44
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Removing galley sink / replacement
« Last post by joel on February 19, 2019, 09:00:24 PM »Hylas provided me with info on the original sink. It was a Polar 102-1. It is no longer made.
I've looked on-line but can't find one, so I am looking at options. There are single bowl sinks that are just as deep, but I have not found a double bowl sink that deep that fits.
Info is:
Brand: Polar
Model: 102-1
Length: 25"
Width: 17"
Individual bowl size: 10" x 14"
Depth: 9-3/4", Drain: 3-1/2" in center of bowls
Cutout size: 23-5/8" x 15-5/8"
Self-Rimming-Heavy Duty
Extra deep
I've looked on-line but can't find one, so I am looking at options. There are single bowl sinks that are just as deep, but I have not found a double bowl sink that deep that fits.
Info is:
Brand: Polar
Model: 102-1
Length: 25"
Width: 17"
Individual bowl size: 10" x 14"
Depth: 9-3/4", Drain: 3-1/2" in center of bowls
Cutout size: 23-5/8" x 15-5/8"
Self-Rimming-Heavy Duty
Extra deep
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Removing galley sink / replacement
« Last post by Sailsteady on February 19, 2019, 04:41:09 PM »Following!
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Sails Needed
« Last post by joel on February 19, 2019, 03:10:55 PM »Bacon uses Quantum’s loft.
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Hylas 54 info
« Last post by SeaGlub on February 19, 2019, 01:24:27 PM »Not as luxurious as the 54 but we are sitting in the marina with you in Barra on our 46. You're more than welcome to come over. We'll be in this area for the next couple of months. Email me at SeaGlub at gmail
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Tack Tube Failure and Storm Trysail Option
« Last post by SeaGlub on February 19, 2019, 01:17:57 PM »I agree with everything Jay said except that when we replaced a shattered top swivel in the in mast furler we did not have the same pressure issue with the motor. Ours came off and went back on without much difficulty.
As for the trysail, we do have one and did use it on a test sail in San Francisco in 25-30 knots. It was not fun hoisting. First, we do have a spare aft halyard installed (and we have found it incredibly useful including for a windsock over the aft cabin hatch). When hoisting, especially if you don't have the luxury of other crew to help, be sure to leave the sail in the bag as much as you can. The big flaw with this integrated track in the mast is that the slugs entered well above my head which creates a large area of exposed trysail to the wind, possible disaster situation. We found it helped to leave the boat at 20-30 degrees apparent wind on the port side (same side as our integrated track) and then let the exposed sail get caught up against the boom Vang. As for the sheets we ran two sheets tied with bowlines aft to the stern cleats. There we had attached blocks with dyneema loops but in a pinch we could have just ran the sheets thru the underside opening of the cleat. Then the sheets came forward to port and starboard winches. With this configuration we could manage the trysail both to port and to starboard by loosening one side and tightening the other. This allowed the trysail to be independent of the boom. Fortunately we've ever only used this in that test sail. Hope this helps. I'm interested in anyone elses experience when hoisting....
As for the trysail, we do have one and did use it on a test sail in San Francisco in 25-30 knots. It was not fun hoisting. First, we do have a spare aft halyard installed (and we have found it incredibly useful including for a windsock over the aft cabin hatch). When hoisting, especially if you don't have the luxury of other crew to help, be sure to leave the sail in the bag as much as you can. The big flaw with this integrated track in the mast is that the slugs entered well above my head which creates a large area of exposed trysail to the wind, possible disaster situation. We found it helped to leave the boat at 20-30 degrees apparent wind on the port side (same side as our integrated track) and then let the exposed sail get caught up against the boom Vang. As for the sheets we ran two sheets tied with bowlines aft to the stern cleats. There we had attached blocks with dyneema loops but in a pinch we could have just ran the sheets thru the underside opening of the cleat. Then the sheets came forward to port and starboard winches. With this configuration we could manage the trysail both to port and to starboard by loosening one side and tightening the other. This allowed the trysail to be independent of the boom. Fortunately we've ever only used this in that test sail. Hope this helps. I'm interested in anyone elses experience when hoisting....
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Hylas Discussion / Re: Air Conditioner Water circulation Pump
« Last post by SeaGlub on February 19, 2019, 12:55:14 PM »I believe that is going to be dependent on the air conditioner itself. Go to the manufacturer's site and check specs for the air conditioner
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