I am trying to determine the brand of hydraulic ram used in my autopilot system.  It is a Raymarine system, installed by Hylas / Christian.  Unfortunately the label on the ram does not seem to be on the hardware.  Perhaps Hylas always specified the same hydraulics for the Type 2 Raymarine installations.  I need to replace the solenoid on the ram because it sticks and does not  disengage. Thanks to all for any help on this one.

Robert Knapp
s/v Quintessa (H49-46)

We are thinking about a top down furler for our gennaker. Would care to hear any experiences of installing one on an H46. What make/model was used. Was there enough separation at the masthead and did you need an extended/retractable bowsprit to make it work. At the moment we fly the gennaker from the stemhead with an adjustable tack line and it works fine.
Is "back twist" really an issue and how do you avoid it?
Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Andy
True Brew H46#32

I am researching cutter conversion options for our Hylas 49/hull49. I am aware of and have read the previous posts on this topic, but I do still have some specific questions I would like to get some input on. We currently have a 130 Genoa and a hank-on staysail (which we have only used when the Genoa had a tear). My wife and I are over 60 and we cruise 6+month each year. We sail mostly near-shore with occasional off-shore passages.
My questions are:
1. Does anyone sail a Hylas 49 rigged as a true cutter? My understanding of a true cutter is that the Jib and Staysail will be used at the same time when the wind is forward of the beam. The Jib is high cut (yankee) and maximum 110%, the staysail is low cut and also max. 110%. I would be interested in performance and handling characteristics of this setup.
2. What should I expect when tacking a 110% Jib? a)assuming the staysail is set and back-winded
 b) With the staysail furled. Does the Jib tack without furling or walking through on the foredeck?
3. I want to have the Staysail on a furler. I am trying to determine if a standard furler (likely a Furlex) or a soft furler would work best.
4. My current staysail sheets are led through a standing block on the coach roof. I do not have a track. With this setup, I need to run the sheet inside the lower shroud when sailing to windward and outside the lower shroud when reaching. Is this generally the case on Hylas 49's or is this a problem caused by the cut of my stay sail? Would a track on the coach roof solve the problem?
5. I am looking for advise on sail cut (radial or crosscut) and materials for both Jib and Staysail.

Any feedback on these issues would be greatly appreaciated.
Thanks,
Christoph, SV Delfina H49/49

 

I re-powered my Hylas 42 in 2017 with a new Yanmar 4JH57.  I was able to remove the old Yanmar by cutting a small part of the engine access door baseboard to allow clearance for the oil pan (needed 2 inches).  I found this easier then removing the sink and surrounding woodwork.  Had a top cap built which covers the incision behind the ladder.

Had the yard crane out the old Yanmar 4JH54TE and crane in the new 4JH57.  There is very little clearance with the main hatch.  Also had the yard replace the prop shaft, cutless bearing and install a drip less seal.

I did all the engine removal / install work.  Had a local Yanmar tech check the installation and alignment before startup.  The new Yanmar was a very close drop in replacement for the old engine.

The 4JH57 is a fantastic engine, always starts a a touch of the button, very clean running and fuel efficient.  Hylas is currently in Mexico and the engine now has over 400 hours.

I would estimate it took me around 50 hours to pull and replace the engine by myself.   Yanmar dealers don’t like just selling an engine ... I had to leverage the Distributor just to get the order placed.  I paid $13,900 for the new engine (List was over $18K) plus tax.  Yard costs for crane, haulout and propshaft work was around $2,000).  Figure another $1K for misc install parts.

Dealers wanted around $38K to do the replacement (not counting the prop shaft).  My total cost was under $20K (including the shaft / install).

On the downside, Yanmar provides very little documentation or support.

Steve
Shooting Star
H-42 # 10

 You typically can't go wrong with any feathering prop; they all offer better reverse characteristics aside from the 1/2 or so you pick up in lighter conditions.  I haven't put one on my 51 yet, but will most likely put the 4 bladed KIWI prop on.  I put a 3 bade on my Ericson 38 and I really liked it.  It made such a difference that I most often backed into the slip because the stopping power and lack of prop walk made it so incredibly easy.  I also like the fact that it only uses the prop rotation to change directions do to the fact it pivots.  Having an extra set of blades was a nice feature, as was the incredibly low weight of the complete prop. It is a very very simple design and while I never had to....the simplicity of changing an individual blade was very attractive.  I did have to tweak the pitch, but that is very easily done as well.

I bought it for my 38 because I was racing a fair amount and  it offered the most value for my budget.  That being said, I work around 300 yards from PYI and they are incredible people to deal with.  I drop in there for friends who have questions and their customer service is 2nd to none....great folks.  I will send an update once i put the KIWI on...hopefully it does the trick again.

Updates to follow...cheers.

Shaun