Author Topic: lazarette shower  (Read 696 times)

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Re: lazarette shower
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2018, 06:47:46 PM »
Thank you Jim!

Yeah, looks like there's no simple answer other than to make a new floor plate custom to fit the 4" holes, then tack it all down into place, caulk it up, plug in the new assy, and look for leaks!


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Re: lazarette shower
« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2018, 12:24:14 PM »
When we bought Capers, two miracles happened. One was being able to upgrade the trilight with LED without having to replace the base on the mast. The other was taking the leaking valves from the aft shower assy and matching it to available valves at a hardware store. Good news is that it has been trouble free for 3 years. Bad news is I have no idea what hardware store or part number.

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lazarette shower
« Reply #1 on: June 13, 2018, 04:31:08 PM »
Hi everyone, I love this board and read it like I used to listen to "Click and Clack" on NPR because of all the Hylas issues and solutions!! Here's ours and we're looking forward to your sage advice!

Amari, our '46 (#33) 2001, has a stern shower in a small console above the lazarette locker, and it leaks. We pulled out the hardware, expecting to have to change the O-ring gaskets and be done with it. It turns out that the problem was with the open/close mechanism within these hardware of these Scandvik showers. That, we learned, is what tends to fail.

But wait, there's more!

The hot/cold water posts on these devices are 6 inches apart. Size definitely matters in this case, because it seems no one makes them any more with that spread. Now everything we can find is all 4 inches apart. Talked to Queen Long and they no longer service, sell, or support those.

So. I hope this is something others may have had some experience with, and we are SO looking forward to your thoughts on what you have done, and what we are planning to do (below).

Currently, the plan is to
1) cut out a rectangular section encompassing the current holes, out of the bottom of this little cubby console.
2) Cut a new piece of fiberglass with openings centered and 4" apart -- and which of course is slightly larger than the hole we cut out.
3) Verify that the new device hardware we purchased fits through the holes.
4) Glue down and caulk around this new piece.
5) Re-assemble the shower fixture.
6) Pray to Neptune, Poseidon, Dory, Nemo, and Marlin that it works.

Thank you guys!
Will and Dottie
Amari #33


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