Author Topic: Mooring cleat screws- good idea Norm! One of mine just failed!  (Read 1087 times)

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joel

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Re: Mooring cleat screws- good idea Norm! One of mine just failed!
« Reply #8 on: April 12, 2018, 03:11:00 PM »
If you rebed the stanchion bases, also do the hinges for the boarding ladder.  They were leaking badly!

Ambition

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Re: Mooring cleat screws- good idea Norm! One of mine just failed!
« Reply #7 on: April 12, 2018, 12:27:17 PM »
Here are a few pictures as well as the process steps:
1.   Figure out access to the underside of the deck (mid-ship cleats are the only challenge on Ambition)
2.   You will need a 15/16” deep socket to remove the nuts from the two studs. There are either one double or two single backing plates and lock washers under the deck. Remove them as well if you can.
3.   Wrestle the cleat out of the deck. I used a 90 degree pry bar  protecting the deck  from damage.
4.   With the cleat removed, I used a wire brush in the Dremel to remove any remaining caulking and corrosion on the nuts, washers, backing plates and the two studs on the cleat.
5.   Using a 120 grit sanding disc on the Dremel I gently cleaned the deck area  of old caulking.
6.   I cleaned the two holes also with the Dremel using a small sanding drum fitting. The deck is NOT cored in any of the locations of the cleats.
7.   Cleaned the old rust stains with FSR and then washed the area well with acetone.
8.   I washed all the nuts, washers, backing plates and cleat with acetone..
9.   Masking tape the area, insert the cleat to use as a template to trim the masking tape. Remove the cutout section.
10.   Apply (my preference is 3M 4200) caulking liberally to the cleat base and 1 ¼” up the stud. 
11.   Set the cleat in place.
12.   Finger-tighten or gently ratchet everything back in place – I try to get the assembly tight enough without squeezing all the caulking out of the joint area.
13.   I let this set up overnight
14.   Tighten the bolts to their final setting the next day.
15.   Trim off the excess caulking and remove the masking tape.
16.   Celebrate with a cold beer!

bp919

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Re: Mooring cleat screws- good idea Norm! One of mine just failed!
« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2018, 09:29:11 AM »
Any pictures of the process on Ambition?... I'm faced with the same work on H49-50 LeCheile

Ambition

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Re: Mooring cleat screws- good idea Norm! One of mine just failed!
« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2018, 09:47:32 PM »
After speaking with John on Windhorse, I decided that I would also check my cleats. Much of our deck hardware has shown signs of failed caulking - corrosion / rusting of the fibreglass shows up within 10 days of cleaning with FSR. I have now pulled out all the cleats and re-bedded them - luckily for me - I broke one stud off with minimal effort on my part. I will order a new cleat from Queen Long. All the others have survived as much torque as I could inflict during the process. To remove the nuts you will need a 15/16" deep socket to get to them off. I have attached a number of pictures of the process I used to remove and rebel the cleats. The mid-ship cleats required some work to gain access to the bolts - I love my Dremel Multi-Max tool / saw. I also used a Dremel to sand away the old caulking, sand out the hole as well as clean-up the cleats and nuts before re-caulking.
All have been reinstalled and I am very happy that only one broke.
Ambition is now 16 years old and it is very evident that re-bedding ALL the deck hardware is in order and my to do list has been updated - the cleats were number one priority. All I have to do now is all the stantion bases, hand rails, locker hatches etc.....

Cheers
Merrill and Maryse
S/V Ambition H46 #40

brian black

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Re: Mooring cleat screws- good idea Norm! One of mine just failed!
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2018, 06:41:45 PM »
ours seemed to have threaded studs extending down, backing plates and nuts.  I would imagine the threaded studs are something like all-thread, stainless steel.  could readily be unscrewed and replaced, except for being Whitworth threads.  if and when we replace 'em, probably I'll go to Herschoff-pattern cleats and one size larger (14").  held on with 4 machine screws, etc.  have to fill the existing holes in the deck, drill new and protect the core, and also new backing plates, but overall I think the easiest fix/upgrade.  316 machine screws for the higher strength, etc.

Norm

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Re: Mooring cleat screws- good idea Norm! One of mine just failed!
« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2018, 01:09:44 PM »
I finally have gotten around to pulling all the machine screws holding my forward mooring cleats.  A total of five out of the eight had cracking of the screw where the head meets the shaft; two about 80% through the screw, one about 50%, and two with hairline cracks. Looks like I'll be pulling the screws from all of the cleats on the deck to check for corrosion/cracks.
Norm

brian black

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Re: Mooring cleat screws- good idea Norm! One of mine just failed!
« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2018, 12:36:18 PM »
They are very vulnerable to this.  On our 46, they had whitworth threads, made it harder to find replacement nuts. 

svwindhorse

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Mooring cleat screws- good idea Norm! One of mine just failed!
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2018, 03:07:04 AM »
I didn’t pay much attention to Norm of Blue Moon’s post last week about his concern about rusted mooring screws until an hour ago when I heard a loud BAM aboard our boat after a 40+ gust blew into Isle Cabrits here in the Saints and tore the forward starboard cleat clean out of the deck. Fortunately, we had bridaled two lines on the mooring, so no big deal. One of cleat’s screws showed complete crevice corrosion and the other partial.  To do list:  Remove and check all cleats.   
John H49-38 (2002)
« Last Edit: February 05, 2018, 03:53:40 PM by svwindhorse »

 

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